Pub Crawl - guide to the pubs, cafe, restaurants and hotel in Boskovice

A pub crawl
A candid guide to the pubs, cafes, restaurants and hotels of Boskovice.
by Andrew Shand

Location.
Boskovice is a charming Moravian town. It's situated about 4 hours by car South East of Prague, 4 hours North of Vienna and about 40 minutes North of Brno.
It's near the Moravian Karst with its characteristic limestone caves and underground rivers.
The ruined gothic castle of “Velen” and the surrounding afforested hills make a romantic back - drop to the town. The later Chateau and its outbuildings, the home of Count Mensdorff -Pouilly, are very interesting : the Chateau is packed with antiques and curios .The Family are related to the English Royal Family , The Saxe- Coburg - Windsors ,through Queen Victoria ,and were economic and military advisors to the House of Habsberg. They were especially important at the beginning of the First World War, when one of the key global politicians in 1914 was Count A. Mensdorff , the Habsburg Ambassador to The Court Of Saint James’s (England.)
To return to Boskovice ;- please enter the Square from the top or east end. The narrow passage curves to suddenly reveal the beautiful cobbled square. The slope adds to the perspective. The Town Hall looks down to confront the elegant church of St. James at the foot. Communista blockbusters loose out to the beauty of Moravian - Habsburg style buildings. Look for the tasteful renovations, especially at the foot of the square, on the left. In behind this is mysterious angular Synagogue and the jumble of tiny streets which form the ghetto.

The legendary foundation of Boskovice. Apparently a nobleman got lost in the forest. A man called Velen helped the nobleman and lent him his comb- (perhaps he was on his way to the medieval disco?) Velen was granted the fiefdom of this area and his coat of arms was a seven toothed comb that still is the crest of Boskovice today.
Legend has it that as the builder of the now ruined castle, Velen was inspecting his construction site. Whilst walking he stubbed his toe on the door step.
“Již bosko více nepujdu!”
- “I will never walk without shoes” he cried. This became the name of the castle and its subservient town below.
Totally paradoxically his modern descendants disregard his command and never wear shoes at home. Please remove your shoes in the hall!

For this size Boskovice has an amazing number and diversity of pubs and hotels. - Hence the need for this guide. The natives are friendly! Mugging and violence are unknown and the waiters and waitresses invariably patient, courteous and honest.
Foreign visitors eccentricities are tolerated!
The position of the castle overlooking the town and the commanding and unusually shaped tower of the Town Hall makes navigation easy. The land slopes up from the valley of Belá in the East (or the road to Prostejov) to the Town Hall than gradually down to the hospital, railway and bus stations on the road to Brno. This town is relatively unspoiled by industry, service industries predominating.
The fact that Boskovice is a centre of academic excellence should make your stay easier - many pupils will wish to practice their English on you.

Basics
Pivo - peevo - beer
the local beers
Cerná hora (Black mountain): major local brewery in nearby village established as recently as 1530, so they should know what they are doing. The Black mountain has disappeared - erosion?
Tas: 10 degrees - mineral sparkling outstanding fresh unsterilized lager beer.
Kern: sweet dark mixed beer.
Litovel: “Beer of this year” 1994. Popular locally, available at strength of ten degrees (3.9% alcohol) or the stronger12 degrees (correspondingly slightly sweeter and full bodied.)
Radegast: big name expanding “Czech made” beer.
Primus: mass - production Pilsen factory product at a budget - price. You can afford better beer than this , I hope .
Pilsner Urqell - Prazdroj: Internationally rightly famous originally beer known to us in its sterilized export form in green and gold bottles.
Rabin: marketed as Boskovice's own beer. Not widely available.
Kozel: the goat! crisp bite, refreshing!
Krusovice : smart packaging for the king of beers.
Budweiser Budvar , the real one from Ceske Budejovice (budweis).
Staropramen , if you want to support the big English brewer , Bass.
Starobrno , improving Brno beer.
Zubr - super - say no more.

Wines
You are about 80 kms North of a major growing wine region (see excursions).
Wine is widely available in pubs.
bílý - beely - white
cervený - sherveny - red
víno - vino - wine
If the flavour is too strong then try "strik - streek" - wine and Matonni or sifon (mineral water) ; a pleasant drink..
The best wine comes from friends in the South in a variety of big plastic Coke and Fanta bottles.

Specialities
Burcák - borchak - revolting looking partially fermented young wine must. Close your eyes and taste this healthy drink. Its really good! Available in September & October only.
Svarzak - Mulled wine is popular in winter.
Spirits:
International Spirits widely available local, the more unusual drinks are :
Becherovka - herb drink, acquired taste.
Broskvová - peach vodka (peach means something else in Czech) sweet.
Fernet widely drunk with tonic - “Bavorák - bavorack”.
Slivovice - the local hooch. Get invited to the home of a Czech friend to sample this. Produced in a co-operative only open in the season, you take along your own little blue trolley of plums and collect you own demijohn of spirits later at a later date, at a nominal fee (near hotel “Velen”).
Zelená - zellena - green chemical peppermint! You will try this only once!

Glossary
Prosím     prosseem     please
Na zdraví     na-zdravy     cheers
Dekuji     dackooy     thanks
Zaplatím     zaplateem     the bill
Pivo     peevo     beer
Hospoda         pub
Hotel         hotel
Ž         women’s toilet
M         men’s toilet
Dámy         ladies
Páni         gents
Malý     malee     small
Velký     velkee     large

Problems
Ice - “led’’ - ‘’lead” - in winter the different climate results in sheet ice in the streets. You can finish up on your back even without a drink.
Flats. A bit of a blot on the landscape, Boskos like their small compact flats.
Comfortable, convenient - district heating and hot water - double-glazing, communal satellite system. Overcome the security system by prodding the button beside the door: be prepared to open the door quickly when the buzzer sounds.
The hall and stair lights are on a timer. The duration is so short that it would have left Zatopek breathless and in the dark.
Roads. One way system on the square. Zebra type crossings are totally disregarded by Czech motorists - presumably they can increase their score by hitting several pedestrians simultaneously.
Language.
Very, very difficult to learn - so what’s English like for Czechs!!? Be prepared to see blank faces if you try to speak Czech!
Communication is no problem as the people are so easy to get on with and want to practice their English. You will forget to speak slowly as interesting conversation stimulates your mind!
Emergencies: in the unlikely event of an accident or emergency a professional translation service is available through Mr. A Vybihal tel. (0501)452702

Restaurants, pubs
Unlike some other countries only one brand and strength of draught beer is normally available in each pub. Thus in order to sample several beers a short walk is necessary - probably just as well.
The normal system of payment is the American tab system - you pay the bill when you've finished. The staff will normally write down the total for you to see and help to sort out the change etc. A tip of 15 % is welcome.
If any inaccuracies exist in this guide, I apologize, as a non - Czech speaker I may have misunderstood information. I would like to thank friends who steered me round the pubs and made sure I got home safely.
The person who asked me to describe Sklepy prompted me to write this book.
Smoking - permitted everywhere.
There is no charge to use the toilets.

Starting at the East or Prostejov end: -
1. Na Konci Sveta ; . Paradoxically this tour begins at a hostelry ironically called ‘The End Of The World ‘ A pleasant Farm-Park setting with paddock , horses and wild goats. The specialties are a selection from the smoke-box ;’parek’ - sausage and ‘pstruh’ - smoked trout . If you order in advance (0501-456150) they will obtain and prepare a barbecue, a whole Pig on a spit for you and your friends ! Accompanied by delicious cerna hora beer , fresh from the local brewery. An entertaining evening , but you are advised to wear old clothes because of the smoke.

2. Hotel Moravia: Lasak's mill
The Belgian joint venture used to cater only for organized package tours but is now fortunately open to the general public. Luxurious 25 room hotel in splendid setting on the outskirts of Boskovice. Restaurant - first class steaks etc. Small expensive portions to suit foreign palates. The imported wines and spirits are easily outshone by the draught Pilsner Urquell, Prazdroj. Phone 0501/45 4441, fax 0501/3589 minibus available.

3. U Žemlu
Standard old Czech pub, delicious fresh beer - Cerná hora (draught) and Krusovice 12. Snacks. Czech billiards. The toilets are abominable. The Big Surprise is concealed round the back for this pub has a tradition of country and western music - (the famous U Žemlu Boys) and they have built a wooden “Fort Boskovice” for American style barbecue and country and western music, outdoors in summer.

4. The Velen.
This has come a long way from being an old cinema - restaurant!
Hotel complex with international standard of decor, service and prices. Tried selling Austrian beer but good sense has since prevailed! Litovel or Holba now, thank goodness!! New ‘U Hasterman’ bar ( the ‘Watersprite’, as in Antonin Dvorak’s opera ‘Rusalka ‘), accommodation, discotheque, one arm bandits, pool, two restaurants. The fish is recommended.
You'll have to bring your credit card (visa).
Phone 0501/2116, Fax 0501/ 2071.

5. Cervena Zahrada . The Red Garden . Sports complex with outdoor pool , tennis courts and football in summer and skating and ice-hockey in winter. Cerna Hora , draught.

6. Cukrárna:
Confectioners selling drink?! But this is in Boskovice! What was a quiet cake and ice cream shop has become an open - air café, Litovel in bottles and in summer Cerná hora draught. Watch out for the wasps. Wines and spirits. Live music and dancing in the street, summer Saturday nights.

7. Romance.
Rather synthetic modern bar - it could be located in any country: except for Litovel in bottles! Good crowd on Thursday nights.

8. Hradní.
The “Bizzness”. Top class business restaurant in
an interesting cloister type setting. Rather cold blue paintings.
The waiters jump around under the watchful eye of Mr. Hauzar. The smažený sýr (grilled cheese in breadcrumbs, with salad, suitable for ovo - lacto - vegetarians) is a bargain. Pilzner Urquell (bottled) Czech girls are impressed by the cocktails. (Visa card.) Phone 0501/3453.
9. Billiard Club -Hradni. Up-market pool and billiard saloon , clean and modern . Good tables. Radegast.
10.Kino Kavarna .Cinema Club . This old vaulted arched building has adapted well to it’s new use , showing films under the direction of Mr. Kovar, the respected veteran cinema manager. Individual tables. Radegast, Spirits .

11. Sklepy.
Total contrast. Amazingly located directly under Hradni. Pavel Simon had recreated the style and atmosphere of a 70´s English pop “cavern”. English (loud) pop music. Watch young people acting out the modern fashion trends , currently a rather grimy Punk look.

12.Vinoteka U Lojzy - Wine Lodge.
You are not ‘’Only here for the beer!’’ should be the motto of this Wine Lodge. Only 80 kms away in South Moravia there is a major wine producing area and the local wine is available here. Wine available from the cask ,to taste and carry-out, economically , in your own container. Also a vast and complex selection of Moravian Vintages in bottle from the extensive cellar . Visitors to the area , unless real wine buffs , may wish to take the advice of Mr. ‘Lojzy’ , the proprietor. Red (cervené - chevrene), white ( -bile- beelly).Dry- suchy ; Sweet - sladky .

13. U Rudyho.- at Rudolf’s.
Mr. and Mrs. Pepa and Jirina Hosek worked long and hard to create an almost ‘Irish Theme’ type pub in the Ghetto. Carefully chosen junk-shop fittings , fireplace , and a friendly, comfortable atmosphere, interesting and adventurous menu, selection of draught beers including Litovel .10 and 12.with guest beers.

14. Egyptska . The Egyptian Restaurant.
An Egyptian gentleman has come all the way from Cairo (population 6 million ) to found this Restaurant. It’s worth going to see what a Czech-Egyptian Menu looks like. Startlingly different cosmopolitan influences , he assures us that he has sorted out his problems with the kitchen and the minced beef kebab and salad is recommended . Attentive waitress and the boss is eager to please. A giant fire keeps him warm in this cooler climate. Bottled Czech beer and interesting Egyptian curios for sale.

15 ,Pivnice ;The Pub ; upstairs.
In total contradiction to the Oriental , a Czech working class pub. Basic fittings. Litovell 10 degrees in absolutely perfect condition (compare with Sokolovna at 12 degrees).

16. Literární cajovna Hermann Ungula.
This tea house is ultimate in extravagant exotica. Combined book-shop and a tea room. Trendy intellectuals sit sipping exotic Indian and Chinese teas. Joss sticks perfume the air. Liqueurs available.

17.Sklipek. The small Cellar.
With games and juke-box, this small tidy little pub stays open to cater for those who do not want to go to their beds until the morning .Starobruno draught , Staropramen and Radegast in cans, spirits.

18.Makkabi.
Located at the site of the pre-war Jewish Sports Club of the same name. this pub has introduced a new concept to Boskovice ; ‘Guest Beers’ .A wide variety of the best Brewery products are presented here ; Pilsner , Krucovice , Litovel ,Bernard and Budvar kept in good condition in a modern cellar using gas-injection.

19. Chaloupka.Closed at present

20. U studánky- the well
Situated in a small private house near the Jewish cemetery you can eat and sample Radegast draught in this busy little pub. Try the toasted cheese snack..

21. Hawai
New late-night bar located in the same modern block as an Old-peoples Home. Modern plastic bar fittings. It’s also a cyber cafe with a computer , on the left , where you can surf the net and send and receive your e-mails .

22. Slavia.
Restaurant (Primus) and snacks. Beautiful modern wooden bar fittings . The style is reminiscent of ‘Belle Époque’, remember that Alphonse Mucha was born not far away. And small modern disco. Handy for the railway and bus stations.

23. Sokolovna (Sokoec - Sokets)
Some say the best beer in Boskovice. Big popular pub. Strong (12 degrees) Litovel in good condition. Old style decor, meals, waiter service, Czech billiards( karambol ) and darts (if you feel home sick).The Czech National dart competition was held here. Next door is the big hall used for Balls and Civic events.

24. Zlata ruze - Golden rose.
Inexpensive, central Bed and breakfast. Modern bar, tables outdoors in summer. Snacks. Friendly father and sons team. Cerná hora draught, and the new strong beer ‘Velvet’ .Look at the adverts for the Velorex Club ( three wheeled Czech micro-car ) in the window.

25. Bistro.
“Foreign” decor, beer (bottled), wine, spirits, snacks.
The expresso coffee is recommended. The key to the toilet is on the counter, near the door.

26. U Petra - (Katák - Katiak).
Old. Men - only pub. Years ago I was advised never to enter this pub by a Czech girl who feared for my safety such was its insalubrious reputation. Fortunately these days are long gone and actually its a harmless restaurant , patronized by the clerks from the Town Hall at lunch-time. The high quality of the draught Radegast 10o and a good extract system , ensures that it is always packed in the evenings .The Classic Renovation on the exterior is somewhat let -down by a rather bleak interior, but with good toilets and nice paintings of Boskovice and its surroundings.

27. Transmark.
You’ll have trouble getting a table in this restaurant as the locals flock to eat good meals at bargain prices. A bit “Chips with everything” but Zdenek , the head waiter, provides the highest standard of service in Boskovice . Try the Pepper-Steak .

28. Pub Special.
11 degrees beer in perfect condition and temperature in grim surroundings. You are here for the beer! A big welcome for English speaking visitors from the staff. Caters for those who enjoy a quick one at Lunch-time and on the way home after work , closing at around 8pm.

29. Buffet Special.
For carnivores who like standing up. Meaty meals, contender for the best lunchtime gulas in town. Peceny bucek, zeali, knedlík, for Czech food addicts.

30. Záložna.
Eat and drink in style watched by a herd of dead animals. Interesting candelabra. The new restaurant managed to avoid microwave food and has instead opted for classical Czech cuisine. Try the gulas, knedlíky and Pivo ,. unreservedly recommended, spiced stew with snow white soft dumplings, Czech style: with draught Cerná Hora.
Sweet, dark, brown beer 12 degrees also available: ask for “rezák”.
Upstairs , Kavarna, fixed price Lunch-time Menu.

31. Buffet Trio.
Rather characterless and obscure; hidden behind the adverts for chocolates and houses. The drinking starts at seven a.m., if you fancy an aperitif.

32. Venezia. Venice
The outpost for Italian fast - food. Zdenek Busina has started this modern pizzeria ;- sit down or carry - out in the box . A selection of Pizzas , Pastas , and Salads. Cappuccino or Espresso coffee .Smart Waitress service. Popular restaurant, Packed till 5a.m. ,weekends . Wines ,Spirits,( the boss drinks Bourbon ), Draught Bernarnd 10 and Bottled Litovel 12.

33. U Štefana - U Stephana
Remote tiny cafe built to serve the needs of the inhabitants of “Beverly Hills” prosperous bungalow area, has expanded considerably over the years to a 75 seater giant pub.

34.U Svobody.
This gentleman has taken advantage of the new freedom of the Czech economy to build this huge house. On the extensive first floor and the roof terrace are a large Pub with commanding views to the South . Private swimming pool may be available. Cherna hora ,draught.

35. Westernové mestecko. Wild West city.
What do you do with an old quarry? Here is the solution. Turn it into a fantasy Wild West town with Tee-pees, Forts and Film Set ‘Main Street’. A saloon, the ‘Four Roses’; the canteen , El Dodo ; a General Store; a Drug Store etc. Incredible feat of the imagination. Watch Czechs work out their fantasies as Cowboys and Cowgirls perform complex barn dances.
Situated to the north -east of Boskovice , 15 mins. walk out along Hribitov , past the cemetery. Special events include Rodeos , mock robberies and gun-fights , and dance nights with visiting Country and Western musicians. Horses and camping available . Warm Cerná hora. Closed during winter.

DISCOTHEQUES
Jizdarna -‘the riding school,’ Romantic arched setting ,table service or bar, this disco is busiest at the weekends , most popular with couples in their twenties.

La Dolce Vita - Hradni street
Shuttered to make a standard disco inside, younger teenagers learn the dance steps by following the gyrations of a scantily clad Go-Go dancer thoughtfully provided by the management . The bar is often the quietest place in the room. Ask for Michal Take rubber boots for the toilets. Beer in cans and the new Fernet Citrus with ice.

Disco Paradise, Nicknamed ‘Pradelna’ or the ‘Laundry’ because of it’s former use. Mainly singles, late teen and twenties. Robert , the D.J. tries to interest the clientele in the latest European, Techno and English Pop .The place to be seen at nights ,in the dark .Beer in cans , wine in bottles.

Majak

Special one - off occasions ;
Christmas - vanoce , Carp for sale from tanks on the square ; held on the 24th of December.
Silvestr-Novy rok ; New Years Eve. This Scottish festival is now the same all over the world.
After Christmas , the Ball Season ;-
Look out on notice boards special balls ,discos and events. For example: ‘Bál ’or ‘ples’
Horácký ball, Firemens ball. (with Tombola, famous Cz film stunt.)
Zábava - entertainment
Folk group “Velen” folk dancing and music in traditional costume.
And for example:
“Tradicní” ples strední pedagogické školy v Boskovicích
The young ladies of the teachers training college dressed to kill. Fashionable extravaganza.
Or “Ples gymnázia Boskovice” - the high school whoop - up
Vast quantities of wine normally available.

In Boskovice: just wander around . Visit the ;
1) Castle; after a steep walk up the hill ,During his guided tour , the ferocious dogs will work the mechanism of the well on request of the Castelan . Refreshments , bar, cherna hora , bottled . The best view point is from a gazebo on the left path, (leaving the castle, cross the grass and turn down the rough path to the left) The path circles back down to the town.
2) Chateau .The home of Count Mensdorff-Pouilly with lots of curios on the first floor.
And the interesting museums.
3) General local Curios and special events at the Rezidence.
4) The Jewish museum.The tragic history of the Jews of Boskovice.
5) Prof. Ph.D. Jaroslav Bransky , the acclaimed local historian and academician , author of ‘Boskovice v prommenach casu’ ( Boskovice -Past and present ) has published a definitive work describing the significant architecture of the Jewish Ghetto .As a result of this book, modern pamphlets are available in Czech, German and English with directions, numbers and maps which will allow you to explore the Ghetto .( Available from the office of ‘Regionalni Noviny’ the local newspaper, Plackova street, next door to the Jewish Museum) Plaques, markers and notices will assist.
4) The Agricultural Museum at the SOUz college. Enlightening and educative even for non-specialists;-Steam tractors from before the turn of the century, industrialization during the 1st Republic , mechanization during the second world war protectorate, and collectivization and russophilation in the ‘50s , then ‘Zetor’ ,modern Cz agricultural engineering. Well worth a visit. Sport.

Swimming pool outdoors in summer, indoors in winter in a surprisingly empty ,clean, warm and modern deck level pool.
Also in winter visit the Super Sauna , next to the Fire Station. Women’s night is Tuesday , Wednesday is Mixed , and Thursday men only .Break the ice ( the fireman’s axe is next door ) on the small invigorating outdoor plunge pool (beer available, cherna hora , naturally).
Ice hockey stadium.( the only fighting in Boskovice ) Winter, at the Red Garden.
Tennis -teniovy dvorec, at the Red Garden , summer
Basketball -kosikova, phone Martin on 454641
Football .For a game of 5-a-Side- Football , Mondays and Thursdays , phone the aging champion , Tonda , on 452702

Cinemas.
Letni -summer -Cinema . The largest outdoor cinema in Europe .
Cinema Panorama , indoors in winter . Small bar, Urquel

Suchý. (Soochy)
Boskovice’s holiday resort. A Big pond with recreation and camping area, and a surrounding forest filled with attractive weekend cottages. Walking and nature trails in summer ;cross country skiing and skating in winter. Try Jan Musil´s pub Sokec. Prague beer goes down too easily, good meals.
To get to Suchy , drive or take the bus out of Boskovice on the (east ) road towards Prostejov , pass through Valchov , approx. 9 kms., and turn left at the village of Zdarna . Suchy is 2 kms. up this road , and the recreation area is to the left at the beginning of the of the village. Parking available.

Karst.
Visit the weird abyss and underground river system of the Punkva. Pot-holing exploration trips of the extensive underground cave system.

Brno.
On the way to Brno stop at Cerná hora to buy souvenirs at the shop by the brewery gate. Don’t eat here but go on to Lipuvka and eat at Formanka. Bus loads of Czechs arrive to gorge themselves on this first-class food - famous “Formanka” guláš.
Must see! - “šalina” (shalina - tram cars). Giant home brew pubs. Adult entertainment’s - Bolek Polívka - Mr. Soup, Brno´s answer to John Cleese. Sex clubs. Beers - “Starobrno”.

South Moravia.
Ask a Czech friend to take you on a trip to visit a wine cellar or ‘sklep’ in South Moravia. Wine fermented and matured in very cool conditions in deep underground cellars. A memorable visit.

Prague .
Watch your Bosko friends faint at the prices. Unspoiled architecture, pubs.
U Švejka.- Home of ‘Good Soldier Svejk .
Golden tiger - Pilsner Urquell.
U Fleku - home brewed dark old beer
.
Pilsen.
Go on the pilgrimage to Plzen (Pilsen - 6 hours by car).
A visit to restaurant Na Spílce (actually in the brewery) will reveal Prazdroj in its draught unpasteurized form. Prepare to fall to your knees. And two varieties of knedlik with your goulas!

The author
Andrew Shand first stumbled upon Boskovice by accident about five years ago. He liked the town and its inhabitants and is fascinated by the rate of change in society here. He upsets everyone by coming on frequent long holidays. In between he recuperates by working as a health physics shift monitor at a large nuclear reprocessing plant in the North West of England. He was torn between the desire to tell everyone about Boskovice but would like to keep it secret to himself.

The original was Edited and Published by Ilja Melkus .
The type-setting (and spelling ! ) was done by Miss Betty Melkusova.

All about Boskovice and the surrounding area.
Boskovice is a beautiful town in Czech Republic, about 30 km to the North of Brno.

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